Getting High In Peru: The Cuzco Chronicles

My Semester Well Traveled Blog

Earlier this year, back in April, I took a trip to Peru. I bring this to your attention now because it's Throw Back Thursday, and I am one with the times. Like shag carpeting. Or popples. Stay with me here. Timing is everything. At the other end of the thirteen hour flight from Los Angeles (through Lima) to Cuzco was my childhood friend, Eva. She had been on sabatical for several months in Cuzco refreshing her Spanish language skills, so she was slightly more advanced in communicating with the locals. And by slightly I mean that she was mistaken as a taller, whiter local. Whereas, I nodded a lot. But being that I had my own translator and tour guide (thanks, Ev!) I was able to immerse myself into the culture. So, I ate really well.

Things to know about Cuzco:

• It's a sprawling city 11,000 feet above sea level. The oxygen is much thinner. I basically sounded like an out-of-shape smoker. Some people get altitude sickness, which can be countered with coca tea (illegal in the US because the leaves are the basis for cocaine), herbal supplements (ginkgo biloba isn't just for improved memory) or an oxygen mask to the face (seriously, hotels stock them).
• They don't flush toilet paper. Poor water pressure; it goes into the trash. Wrap your head around that one.
• Don't drink the water! Use con gas (sparking) or sin gas (regular) bottled water for hydration and teeth brushing. The chances of getting a parasite from the tap are very high.
• You can get antibiotics over the counter from Farmacias. Just describe your symptoms to the attendant and he'll prescribe the medication. AND you only pay per pill! This is critical when you have a thirteen hour return flight and feel like death.
• Passionfruit seems to be in every dessert. It is super sweet, and just like cinnamon, a challenge to consume whole.
• Street girls massages. Basically it's an inexpensive, poorly executed massage, if you're into that sorta thing.
• Bring layers. Buildings aren't heated. I suggest socks to bed. 
• Locals don't wear sunglasses. They just don't.
• It can be pretty hippy dippy. Lots of expats "finding" themselves with their bohemian backpacks and their crystals. So, yes, there's plenty of yoga classes with chime music and vegan restaurants. 
• The popular drink is the Pisco Sour: the love child between a margarita and a whiskey sour. Smooth yet mischievous.
• You will learn the difference between a llama and an alpaca, and pose with said llama/alpaca for pictures after paying a couple of soles for the experience to the natively dressed woman and her children. Live with no regrets.
• The food is awesome and cheap. Super fresh meats, fruits and vegetables. Over 400 restaurants in the city. Tripadvisore the heck out of this town. Favorites include: Green Point, Shaman Vegan Raw Restaurant, Jack's Cafe and The Meeting Place.
• Catholic churches are a little different. They received 5 concessions. 1. Mary is always featured as the shape of a mountain / pregnant. 2. Mirrors are everywhere within the churches. 3. Animals are painted with human expressions. 4. Snakes are included in paintings with Mary. 5. Artwork was created in the native likeness (darker skin, less muscular physique). 
• Your childhood pet is an entree, if your childhood pet had been a guinea pig. It's called Cuy. Eaten by locals for special holidays and included in a Da Vinci's Last Supper painting surrounded by the 12 disciples. It's like a gamey chicken, so they say.

I stayed near the heart of Cuzco around the Plaza de Armas, where a parade seemed to emerge every other day. Many restaurants around the plaza have a second story balcony, which offered the best views complete with coffee. It was the Incas who viewed Cuzco as the navel of the world, the source to all life. It's still a very bustling city with street vendors selling everything from finger puppets to little llama toys. You can barter for almost anything. Eva would actually translate the play-by-play of the sale for me. I'd ask how much and they'd start at one price followed by a repeatedly lower one. It's part of their culture. And so now the little llamas are also a part of mine.